Limes Tour [Seoul - Day 2] 13-3-10

 

It's 8AM in the morning and I didn't get an ounce of sleep because I was still suffering from jet lag. This photo is of the floor below the one I slept. The reason why I didn't choose to sleep on this floor was because at that time the lights were not switched off. I was really surprise that nobody was snoring here whereas the floor I was sleeping on, I had to bare with many variations of snores from over 10 people as if they were trying to make music together. I wait for Lime and she comes around 8:30AM. We go to the sauna but don't stay for too long because the heat is unbearable for her so we go get ready to leave for breakfast.

                    

We go to a small restaurant to eat Gimbab which is similar to Makizushi. Unlike the Japanese version, you can eat Gimbab without soy sauce, wasabi, or pickled ginger. As standard, side dishes are provided for free with every meal and I get to eat kimchi for breakfast which doesn't feel right but I guess it takes time getting use to.

 

Next we go to Deoksugung Palace which is one of the Five Grand Palaces in Seoul. 

 

I saw a Western looking building and asked Lime why it was there next to the palace? She told me it was built by the Japanese during the Japanese Occupation which is sad. The palace was intentionally heavily destroyed by the Japanese and now only 1/3 of the structure remains.

This is a statue of the mythical animal known as Haetae. At that time I couldn't guess what the animal is but now I know it's suppose to be a lion.

 

Throughout the day there are royal guard-changing ceremonies so we went to front of the gate and checked it out. Traditional Korean instruments are played during the ceremony. I remember disliking the sound of one of the instruments because it reminded me of music played during funerals. 

     

The ceremony lasts for around 30 minutes and then after you can take a lovely photo with the guards. There was a stand where you could try on traditional Korean clothes for free so I was persuaded by Lime to do so.

 

Still to this day, I do not know why this blue looking cat is here nor do I know what he or she is?

I remember we had to take this photo again because I closed my eyes in the previous one so Lime called me stupid in Korean, ha-ha.

Apparently, I look stupid in this photo. I mentioned before about the mythical animal known as Haetae. Lime said the Haetae was chosen to be the icon and symbol of Seoul.

I've always been interested in art especially contemporary art so I couldn't miss taking a photo of this. It's quite hard to see but this piece of art was created using thousands of photos. 

Next, we went to walk a long Cheonggyecheon stream. Lime said walking along this stream reminds her of her ex-boyfriend so I can imagine a lot couples will walk along here at night when it looks more beautiful with the lights turned on.

We went for a snack at Mister Donut. There was some free samples at the counter so I tried a few but honestly don't think it tastes as good as Krispy Kreme. Krispy Kreme is not popular in Korea. I've only seen one during my travels however, I have seen around 20 Dunkin' Donuts stores. I think Koreans don't like Krispy Kreme because it tastes too sweet as I remember Lime and Rosalie don't like it. After seeing many Dunkin' Donuts stores, I thought Koreans must love eating it but Rosalie told me that's not the case because the company has a mass expansion plan in S. Korea which has raised criticism.

After eating doughnuts we went to Insadong which is a large market for antiques, artworks and a perfect place for buying souvenirs. I brought most of my souvenirs from here so that I could get it over and done with and enjoy the rest of my holiday.

Here are a couple of guys singing and freshly making Kkultarae (Traditonal Court Cake). The cake is made of ripened honey and malt costing ₩5000 for a box of 10. I remember watching a video clip of this store on the internet over a year ago so to see them in real life felt unreal. Here is a video clip link from YouTube: [Kkulturae - Traditional Court Cake]

For lunch we went to eat Samgyetang (A Korean soup with a whole baby chicken). Inside the chicken is stuffed with glutinous rice and boiled in a broth of Korean ginseng, dried seeded jujube fruits, garlic and ginger. Lime said that Koreans will eat it in the Summer to re-energise them from physical exertion during the hot summers and that it's a dish to help cheer people up. The chicken tasted better when dipped into the salt provided. It was nice to have soup and eat something healthy because I was feeling tired and exhausted from the lack of sleep I've been getting.

Being a tea drinker I wanted to buy some tea to take back to London. The shop assistant from the tea shop recommended me buying the tea on the left which I don't have a clue what it is but I brought it anyway. Lime brought me the tea on the right which is Samhwa Honey Quince Tea. I haven't tried it yet so I'll write a review once I get the chance.

One of my to do list, is to drink traditional tea in a Korean tea house which you can easily find in Insadong.

 

Most menus in Seoul are in Korean which of course I can't read so I told Lime I wanted to try a sweet tea. She recommended me Daechu cha, a traditional tea made with dried jujubes which are red dates. The texture of the tea was thick and the taste of jujubes was strong and sweet. I thought it tasted okay but I don't think I would drink it again because I'm officially not a fan of jujubes. 

 

Lime ordered Omija cha, which is made from dried fruits of Schisandra Chinensis. Omija cha is named because the tea comprises five distinct flavors: sweet, sour, salty, bitter, and pungent. Out of the 2 teas, Omija cha tasted better because I liked the sweet fruitiness and sour taste of the tea. 

We ate the Kkultare that I brought earlier because it's suppose to taste better with tea. The cake tasted delicious. The strands of honey had a flaky textured taste and it would start to melt into my mouth and then biting into a chewy, sweet and nutty filling. Eating 2-3 is enough but anymore would be too much. Apparently the end product of the cake has 16,000 strands suggesting the prayer for longevity, health, good fortune and wish-fulfillment. I thought it might be a popular Korean snack but all the Koreans I've asked have not tasted it and said it's probably a tourist thing.

 

Here are strawberry and dung (turd) shaped bread with red bean paste in the centre. I didn't buy any because the queue was long and I was stuffed from lunch and tea. I'm guessing it would have been the best turd anyone can eat.  

 

Before reaching the end of Insadong I see a sign offering free drinks and entertainment so we went to check it out. Lime helped me get a free Korean tea, which to be honest I didn't want to drink because we just came from a tea house. Since it was for free, I didn't expect much from it but it actually tasted good. I remember the tea tasted creamy and sweet but I don't know what it is which is a shame.

I tried playing the game Tuho (투호) where you test your hand-eye coordination skills by throwing arrows into a vase. 

Looking at this photo, it looks like the arrow will smoothly flow straight into the vase but it ends up completely missing. I'm no spear chucker but this game is near impossible to win. I mean the arrows are almost as long as my arms.

Next, we went to Samcheong-dong where Lime said a lot of couples will go to. She's right because I kind of notice from the crowd change between Samcheong-dong and Insadong. In this photo is a photo of the first traditional Korean house that I saw. We walked past a restaurant after, which is apparently suppose to be famous for Dukboki. I wanted to try it but we were still stuffed to eat anything.

This is the National Folk Museum. 

Before we went inside the museum we walked around the entrance and looked at the old Korean stores.

The museum inside looked like it was newly built because it was modern. I have to admit that I'm not a big fan of history museums but it was interesting because Lime was able to explain some history to me.

 

I do have to admit I'm a big fan of fans but not the electrical ones of course. My love for fans started when I visited Japan in 2006 but I didn't start collecting them until last year when Lime brought me my first fan. I brought the mini version of the traditional fan in the middle when I went to Insadong. 

After exploring the museum we walked around the entrance where there were statues of the Zodiac Animals.

 

Lime is a few months older than me and is born in the year of the cow. I remember she overheard a boy saying if she was a foreigner, ha-ha. It's actually her first time visiting this museum.  

Reunited [Seoul - Day 1] 12-3-10

On the 11-3-10, I leave my home around 6AM to go to Heathrow airport at terminal 4. It's the first time I've ever traveled by myself outside Europe so the feeling is quite daunting for me, as I barely speak any Korean nor do I have a solid plan for this trip. To be honest, I don't have that usual exciting feeling and have doubts as to if I'll enjoy my holiday.

I'm flying to S. Korea with Air France. I have to transfer from London -> Paris -> Incheon, taking 2 planes instead of a direct flight to reach S. Korea because it saves me over £100 and help pays for my trip to Jeju Island. Before sitting on the plane, I was hoping I would sit next to a English speaking Korean so that I could practice my Korean and ask for recommendations for my itinerary. Wishes don't always come true, as I end up sitting next to 2 Japanese girls whom barely speak any English. Sitting on the plane for 13 hours I had to keep busy so I watched the movie "A Beautiful Mind." which is about a genius whom suffers from schizophrenia. The movie is really intriguing which is no wonder why it won 4 Oscars. After the movie and dinner I tried to sleep but my mind won't switch off so I spend time designing and writing in Rosalie's Birthday card.

I arrive at Incheon airport on 12-3-10 in the early morning feeling tired from a sleepless night. Rosalie has to go to university so I have to make my own way to her house. I will be staying at her home with her family during my time in Seoul. At the exit, I get bombarded by taxi drivers offering me a lift but I refuse because Rosalie recommended me taking the bus which is cheaper. I wait for the 6020 shuttle bus which goes to Yeoksam station near her home. The bus arrives and I ask a Korean lady how much it costs and she tells me I have to get a ticket from the office so I quickly run and purchase one. Sitting on the bus I overhear the Korean lady teaching Korean to her language exchange partner which makes me regretfully feel like I should have studied Korean before I left London.

I go to the station to get a T- money card which is like an oyster card to travel around Seoul using public transport. I have to take another bus to reach Rosalie's house but have trouble finding it and then realise I walked passed it after calling Rosalie. I was feel hungry so I ate at KFC for lunch before boarding the bus. The waitress speaks Korean to me and I don't have slightest idea what she said so I point to the menu and order a box master and a grape flavoured Fanta which I've never tried before. I feel like I shouldn't be eating KFC because I'm on holiday but I'm not brave enough to eat at a Korean restaurant by myself.

I follow Rosalie's map that she drew for me and search a long time walking back and fourths for her home and luckily bump into her mum. I go to my room and have 2 choices which is either (a) go exploring or (b) wait for 4 hours for Rosalie. I quickly decide to choose option (a) because I don't want to waste half a day resting. I decide to go to COEX shopping mall because I remember Rosalie said it's not too far from her home. Her mum left early for work so I only wave goodbye to her dad. I go to the bus stop and have no idea how to get to COEX. I look at the bus stop and all the information is in Korean so I ask a man where COEX is and he points at the name of the bus stop that I have to get off. COEX shopping mall is huge and has many shops and restaurants. To be honest I didn't come to S. Korea for shopping. I find shopping a waste of time because I prefer to spend time sight seeing, experiencing and learning about the culture and of course, eating the best food.

I remember my friend Sinmei from London said there is a Kimchi Museum in COEX so I go and hunt for it. I walk around the mall and finally find it after searching for over 1 hour.

I always thought that there is only one type of kimchi but after visiting this museum, I quickly realise I'm wrong. The museum is quite small so you can easily explore it within 30 minutes.

Here is a kimchi lady feeding me kimchi. I like kimchi but I'm not sure if I can eat it everyday as Korean's even it eat for breakfast, which I find is too early for spicy food. After visiting the museum, I begin to make my way back to Rosalie's house. I try to look for my bus stop but have no idea where it is and get lost trying to find it, so I walk on the direction to Yeoksam station. I walk half-way and then find the bus stop and get on the 146 and then realise I'm got on the wrong bus because I'm suppose to take the 147. Anyway, I eventually reach Rosalie's house and she opens the door for me. It feels unreal to see her again because it's been over half a year since she left London. I'm happy to see her again and happy to hear that Lime can meet us for dinner later.

I brought Rosalie's parent's an English teapot, traditional tea and biscuits as a gift for allowing me to stay at their home. Rosalie's mum made some tea and said the teapot would remind her of me every time she uses it. After, we leave to go meet Lime. I wave goodbye to the parents again and I ask Rosalie why she is laughing and she tells me it's rude to wave goodbye to your elders and that your suppose to bow. Now I realise why her dad gave me a weird reaction when I waved goodbye to him in the morning. I like learning about different cultures but to be able to put it into practice is even better.

We went to Lime's company to wait for her. She work's at POSCO, the world's leading steel maker. Outside her company is a piece of art designed by Frank Stella, costing over $1.8million. When I went inside her company, I was amazed by the video art near the entrance and was shocked that they even have their own art gallery. We sat down near the cafe and then she arrives by hitting me on my back. To reunite with my friends is an amazing feeling. I felt mentally and physically tired but Lime seems to have a special charm that brings a smile on everyone's face.

We make a move to dinner and Lime suggests to eat intestines which apparently tastes delicious. I weren't too sure about eating it and make a weird facial impression so we end up eating Samgyupsal.

It's the first time I've tasted Samgyupsal which is fatty slices of pork belly meat. You wrap the pork with a cabbage leaf or perilla leaves and then add accompaniments. Lime told me your suppose to eat it in one bite which I had trouble doing and ate it quite messily. The Ajumma will cook the meat for you which is great because it saves me from burning it. The girls also ordered cold noodles and soju which is often consumed with meat. I didn't drink much because I wanted to sleep well tonight. Lime prepared a plan for my first to days and our next destination was the Han River Cruise. The last cruise is after 8PM so we quickly finish eating and made our way to the station.

Here we sit on the subway. Rosalie wanted to take a photo of me with Lime. The subway is great in Seoul and is a lot better than the tube in London. The subway is more spacious, modern, clean and the seats even warm up which is great when your feeling cold. We look at the time and it's not likely that we'll make it to the last cruise. Lime is always a positive thinking person and says that we can still make it but Rosalie said we can't. I remember Lime said to Rosalie that she's being negative and Rosalie made me laugh by replying "I'm not negative, I'm just being realistic."

We get off the subway and Lime leads the way to the cruise. Running, helps bring back funny memories when I had to run with Lime for the coach in Cambridge, England. We finally get inside the ticket office and the worker tells us that the last cruise is not running anymore because there isn't enough people. I wasn't that heart broken about missing the cruise because I can imagine it will be similar to the Thames River Cruise in London. Feeling breathless we all sit on the sofa and rest to recuperate our energy.

We end up walking along Han River as an alternative option. We walk past this boat and apparently couples will have weddings there which I can imagine would be lovely during the Summer. Lime said I was lucky that I could meet her because her mum was suppose to go to hospital as she might have a cancer lump, but luckily was okay at the end and didn't have to go. I just joked and said it was her destiny to meet me again and Rosalie joked and said Lime's mum should thank me. We don't walk for long  because it was really cold and the wind was blowing at me wildly so I jokingly walked behind Rosalie so that she can block the wind for me. After we make our way to the Jjimjilbang (찜질방) which is a public bath house where you can stay over for the night. I only went with Lime because Rosalie went the day before with her mum. I was given 2 choices, either (a) go to a smaller Jjimjilbang where there is less people and no foreigners or (b) the larger Jjimjilbang which is more modern and will have foreigners. I end up choosing option (a) because Rosalie said it's more quiet and less busy.

On our way, waiting for the subway we came across a poster advert of 2PM (Korean Boy Band). According to Lime, these guys are real hot, especially the guy in pink whose actually not Korean and from a Thai/Chinese background. Damn, I don't think I would attract any girls wearing his pink outfit. 

We get to the Jjimjilbang and I feel like an immigrant because I can't speak Korean and have no idea what I'm suppose to do. Lime has not been to this Jjimjilbang before so she can't explain clearly what I have to do. I enter the men's changing room and undress. Nobody speaks English and I have no idea which direction to go but luckily take the correct stairs down to a room where there are showers, hot tubs and saunas. I've been to one similar in Japan before so it's not much of a culture shock for me but I still feel uncomfortable because I'm not use to the environment. After I finish, I get change into some clothes that was given to me at the counter. I go to buy a toothbrush and toothpaste but the shop assistant don't understand English. I use sign language and he tells me the toothpaste is downstairs where the showers are so I have to get undress again just to brush my teeth and then get change again.

Anyway, after the long process to brush my teeth I meet Lime on the next floor up. I mentioned before that I was lucky about taking the correct stairs otherwise I would be experiencing a really embarrassing moment as I don't think a bunch of clothed people will want to see a naked guy. The room is mixed and there are different saunas rooms at different temperatures, sleeping mats, wide screen TV's and massage chairs. We go on the massage chair which only costs ₩1000 for 15 minutes and is highly relaxing. After we go to next floor up to the snack bar. Lime ordered me a Korean hot dog and green tea. She ordered hard boiled eggs and a traditional Korean drink called Sikhye which tastes really refreshing. She tried to crack the eggs on my head but it didn't quite work. The egg's are not your ordinary white colour and are eaten with salt. I go to get my camera so that I could take a photo of the egg and walk down 2 sets of stairs. I enter a room and see only women and a Ajumma tells me to get out of the room making me realise I'm in the women's changing room. Luckily, none of them were naked otherwise they would kill me. I guess this is what happens when you can't speak nor read Korean.

Anyway, after hanging out in the snack bar until around 12ish we went to the sleeping area to sleep. Lime felt uncomfortable sleeping in the room because there were a lot of men snoring so she went to the women's only room to sleep which is lucky for her. She would come and get me the next morning at 8AM. It's past 12AM so I try to sleep after a really long and exhausting first day.